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Perfume History

The word “perfume” comes from Old Provincial French perfumar – per “through” and fumar “to smoke”.
This explains the art of perfumery, believed to have begun in the Middle East with the burning of incense.

A world without perfume would be a world without history…

 

Perfume has always been important in the history of mankind. Used by the ancient Egyptiants, Romans, Chinese and mentioned in the Bible, perfume is an instrument of worship, medical care, hygiene or beauty ritual, but it was also quickly considered as a pleasure for the mind and body and used as a tool of seduction.

 

PERFUMERY MILESTONES

Antiquity
During the civilizations of antiquity, perfume was presented as an offering to the gods. It was believed to sublimate the body and make it more god-like. The Egyptians gave their passion for perfume to the Romans. They perfumed every part of their body and their togas with a different smell.


Middle Age
During the Middle Ages, plants were used to protect against epidemics whereas perfumes from the Orient whispered of carnal pleasures. The Church condemned alchemists. The first guild of perfumers was established in the 12th century by Philippe-Augustine of France.

1490-1600, Renaissance
During this period, queens and courtesans fought over the secret formulas created by the first Italian chemists and discovered fragrance ingredients imported from Asia and America.

The use of fragrance at the Versailles court reached intoxicating levels. The makers of gloves, fragrances and powders became organized and developed their trade.

1700-1789, Age of Enlightenment
Hairstyles, make-up and perfume ... During that era, women painstakingly followed the codes of seduction and discovered the tyranny of fashion.

1789-1860, Napoleonic years
The excesses of the Directoire and the Empire were finally over. The flower-like woman of the romantic era was looking for a delicate scent that reflected her personality.

1860-1900, Modern Perfumery
Towards the end of the 19th century, the fragrance industry increasingly targeted women belonging to the middle class. The first synthetic fragrance ingredients made their appearance.

1900 : the "Belle Époque“, Coty and René Lalique, turned the fragrance into a product of luxury with a prestigious name and a beautiful bottle.

1920-1930 : The flappers of the Roaring Twenties, embracing emancipation and innovation with gusto, discovered the novel freshness of aldehydic fragrances.

1930-1950 : After World War II, Haute Couture and fragrance combined to create an image of feminine seduction inspired by Hollywood.

1950-1960 : In the Fifties, fragrance lost its exclusive image. The first eaux de toilette for men made their appearance. The first American perfume was born.

1960-1970 : 1960 ushered in an era of opposition and a change in social behavior. In terms of fragrance, it signaled the appearance of a new olfactive freshness.

1970-1980 : The seventies woman claimed her individuality and proudly wore a "lifestyle" scent. Men started to use scent independently of their shaving ritual. Marketing analysis transforms perfumery ,before being created, the fragrance is conceptualized and must reply to the supposed desires of consumers.

1980-1990 : A time of individualism and confrontation. Fragrance, blatant, powerful, became a reflection of the strong sensations sought after by the surfers and the yuppies. New fruity notes, which originated in the US, added a novel twist to men's and women's fragrances.

1990-2000 : Materialism was fading into the past. Men and women were yearning for a purer world. They were sharing fragrances that reflected the search for a new freshness.

The 21st century has focused on a return of the entrepreneur and the desire to control your own destiny.

Femininity is asserting itself in a powerful way that reached its peak in 2003, when the ‘porno-chic’ trend flaunted provocative ‘bad girls’.

After there was a transition towards more emotion and authenticity. The market has been leaning towards a ‘vintage’ concept, particularly with the boom in nouveaux chypres, like Coco Mademoiselle.

New values, like ecology and sustainable development are emerging. At the same time, inter-community connections are growing stronger. An obvious overture that translates into new olfactory codes: less compartmentalized, men’s fragrances explore an intense, oriental, and even floral sensuality.

Niche brands offered unisex fragrances that went against the diktats of marketing. And to satisfy a growing desire to stand out from the crowd, fragrance were going all out with limited-edition, exclusive, ‘vintage’ and even custom-made scents.

 

 
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